Monsoon mania, Nagarabare Waterfalls

I fantasized to trek a place that was free from human intervention associated with risks and filled with challenges. Lush greenery, rich flora fauna, waterfalls all around, foggy atmosphere, frequent drizzles and refreshing breeze were my expectations.

Explore the remote and serene area was part of my two days travel plan to explore the couple of waterfalls in H.kal area. I’ve been planning to explore Nagarabare or Kallabbi waterfalls since many years but I’ve never been able to make it. It was my second attempt to hike during a heavy downpour in this region.

This time we were 12 participants who were eagerly waiting to embrace nature, our group is formed by core nature admirers and most importantly we respect it. We had our breakfast at a Hotel on the way hot coffee and Idli were right combination to get us going in full spirit.

The weather didn’t stop us from exploring the waterfalls but we struggled to find the right person to lead us towards the waterfalls. There are only 2 persons knows about this place  but they are hesitating to go waterfalls on monsoon, they usually don’t bring outsiders to the Falls which is highly risky and we couldn’t blame them according to them they don’t have any rights to bring any visitors without permission from the forest and wildlife department.

So what we did was we went to the respected departments and took the permission later, looked for the wildlife guard and when we finally found him he just advised us to do some formalities with the assistance of some friendly forest officers we went back to guide house. And at last we were assisted. Our plan became alive to explore Nagarabare Falls that late morning. It turned out that the entrance to the trail going to Nagarabare Falls is just near the house of Guide.

 When we went back to the main road just a few minute drives we find the forest gate on the left side of the road. It was raining by the time we arrived at the starting point of our hike. Upon entering the gate and passing through some narrow road we welcomed by a thick forest and hills and that’s where the actual trekking starts. It was raining hard that day so the trail was muddy and slippery. We were very careful rocks full of moss that when added with rain can be very slippery.

Though we were all soaking wet, the hike was fast! After like hiking for two hours, I finally heard the sound of the splash of water. Aside from the constant itchy feeling on my feet because of leaches, mosquitoes or ants we also endured the cold air and rain in the middle of the jungle. it was challenging, the steep trail and the mud.  I couldn’t remember how many times I slipped during the trek! But that didn’t stop us from being cautious. We were exploring the mountains; one wrong slip can be very dangerous. The sticky, claustrophobic jungle presses in on us from all sides as we scramble up the muddy path.

We were at the heart of the forest and mountain, a place where the temperature could drop when raining. We finally arrived.  I had some first glimpse of the waterfalls. There was still a bit of rain. I was soaking wet with sweat and rain, yet when I saw Nagarabare it was like all my body ache just went away. This has always been the effect of waterfalls to me.

Passing through some rocks we were finally face to face with this beautiful waterfall. Nagarabare is massive and grand. Sometimes when you see it in photos, you’d first think that this is just ordinary. But wait until you see it before your eyes.  It’s huge yet has a calming effect, taking all your stress and worries away. That’s the power of nature. 

We couldn’t resist looking at one another checking if our thoughts and feelings were the same.  Prashanth even said, “Amazing, right?”  It was huge, tall and majestic. The splash of water has created this dramatic mist, which was surprisingly relaxing. The wall of the falls was filled with green plants making it look even more spectacular.  Of course, we were able to take photos of the falls in wide shot, from afar. But the best experience happened when we got closer and closer.

When I got really close to the falls Wow! The first feeling was the amazement of its power as it touches the water and rocks. The wind can take you a back for a while, the water and mist was just inexplicable.  It was another awe moment for me, literally a jaw dropping experience, which was pretty much enjoyable because of the sweet taste of the mist when my mouth was wide open, totally amazed by this beauty of nature.

All of us were having our own moments with the falls. Some were taking selfies, while others were planning if they could make even closer. When the group made way towards the falls for a swim I stayed for a while to the rocky parts to take some photos for the campaign as for me, I just enjoyed it. I sat on a rock tasting the water, the mist, enjoying the strong wind that compliments the entire experience. 

It’s tall about 150 feet, looking at its splendor, Nagarabare is like a two layered waterfalls, a creation of nature. Below is a wide body of water perfect for a photo op while the one on top is a huge falls directly coming from the mountain. It was like a force to be reckoned with; the water creates this huge and resounding splash. . The best about Nagarabare Falls is the rich nature surrounding its beauty. You could hear the chirping birds and the calming splash of water. The water was so cool it relaxed my tired muscles after an exhausting hike under the rain. 

Once you get to Nagarabare Falls, you better get the best out of it, so never settle to exploring the lower part. Get to the top to enjoy the best view. Looking at the vast pond and the nature surrounding it made me realize two things. One is get out and experience outdoors!

After having lunch and fully enjoyed Nagarabare Falls, it was time to go back.   The hike going back was even tougher than I expected. We went through this steep assault from the falls going up and since it was still raining it was a struggle for the difficult muddy trek while we were all soaking wet these are the kind of experiences that made us tougher.

There are a lot of stories told to us by locals there they have many versions and it’s ridiculous! So it is better to just say that it is still a mystery. I was so thankful to Arun and Suresh, for helping us. It was another moment a realization that locals are there not just to help you with the directions towards the mountain but to also keep you safe.

Suryanarayana Temple, Magala

Magala village situated in Hadagali taluk of Bellery district is famous for Kalyana Chalukyan temples. One such temple is the Suryanarayana Temple constructed in 1209 A.D. by Sameyada Garuda Marmmarasa of Magala. This temple is an ornate Chalukyan structure of great architectural merit.

The Suryanarayana Temple is located canter of the village. This temple is a Trikutachala or a temple with three Garbhagrihas housing the gods Somanatha, Venugopala and Surya. The main western Garbhagriha has a standing Venugopala (Prasanna Kesava) of 3 feet in height holding Sanka, Chakra and flute on another two hands which is profusely embellished with delicate carvings of great workmanship.

The Garbhagriha on the east accommodates a beautiful sculpture of Surya of the Chalukya period which is a rare specimen. The ceiling of the Mantapa is divided in twelve parts and each part divided into twelve compartments. The central ceiling has a large lotus with beautiful ornamentation and in the centre is a hanging lotus bud. The ceiling of the Mantapa is described as one of the finest among Chalukyan monuments.

Each Garbhagriha has an Antarala and all shrines are connected to a common Sabhamantapa preceded by a mukhamantapa facing south. In the interior the doorways of the Garbhagrihas and Antaralas are carved with five Sakhas and below the Sakhas are Dvarapalas.

Benches with slanting back rests run one side of the Mandapa. The four pillars are in form of half pillars supported on these benches. The Navaranga and the Mukhamantapa are joined together forming a large hall consisting of ten pillars.

The walls have niches in the Sabhamnadapa containing images of dancing gods. The ceilings of the temple are exquisitely carved and varied. They depict Kirtimukhas issuing scrolls filled with lotus and flying gandharvas, dikpalas, flowers and composite mythical animals.

Its outer walls are profusely embellished with series of pilasters, surmounted by delicately carved miniature Shikharas. The pillars are also impressively wrought.

One can find Jaina temple here with an image of Teerthankarain in the posture of contemplation is situated at 200 meters away from Suryanarayana Temple. On micro observation of the temple it can be concluded that the temple hailed from 11th century and concerned to early western Chalukya period of Karnataka.

Bhimeshvara Temple, Nilagunda

Nilagunda was an important village with artistic activities during the time of the Chalukyas of Kalyana.  Nilagunda is famous for Shiva temple built by the Chalukyas of Kalyana and located on the bank of huge lake and surrounded by hillocks of sandstone amidst scenic beauty.

The village is referred as Nirgunda in its inscriptions there exists remains of few ancient tanks hence the name Nirgunda seems appropriate for it. The village was part of Vikkiga-70 which in turn was under Kokali-500. The numeric number against the region specifies the number of villages under its jurisdiction.  The earliest inscription found in the Bhimeshvara Temple here, dated 1087 CE, mentions land grant to five-hundred Brahmans who came from Dravidian lands. This land grant was of the village Nirgunda, present Neelagunda. Few years later, few more additional villages were also granted to the same Brahmans.

As there is no foundation inscription of the Bhimeshvara Temple, hence it cannot be said with surety that the village was formed by populating that with Brahmans from other places.  However, it might be that these Brahmans were called for some specific reasons and were settled at Neelagunda. Also it can be inferred that this event would have taken place during the rule of the Chalukyas of Kalyana as the antiquity of the temple in question cannot be taken back further than their rule.

The Bhimeshvara temple is seems to have been built in about 11th century A.D. The temple is in Vesara style. The temple consists of three Garbhagrihas, each with an Antarala on the north, west and south, opening into the Sabhamandapa and Mukhamandapa on the east with lateral steps at the entrance, and a shrine attached to the mukhamandapa on the east.

The walls have projections and recesses decorated with Vesara turrets on double pilasters and with Dravida turrets on single pilaster. The western cella has its superstructure intact and as a whole it is Tritala Vesara vimana. Each Tala is composed of composite Sala, Panjara and Kuta units. Under the kirtimukha of each sala is Siva as Nataraja, Mahesvunara, etc.

The shikhara has many carved panels on its top depicting Brahma, Shiva and various goddesses. There are few curious sculptures as well; the one showing a man wearing a foreign robe is of interest. The niches on south, west and north facade have Narasimha, Shiva and Subramanya respectively. There are many small panels carved just above the Adhishthana of the base. There are depicted Kamadeva-Rati, Rama-Hanuman and various dancers, Yakshas etc

Very imposing Sculpture of Shiva and Parvati of about 5 feet in height is situated inside the Mandapa. Shiva is seated with his wife Parvati on his lap with sympathetic smile on her lips such sculptures are rare. His front hand is held up in Abhaya mudra which is a symbol for protection. His last hand is wrapped around a much smaller version of His wife Parvati.

When the husband and wife are together in sculpture Shiva is generally larger. There is a lotus flower carved into the front of the base. This reflects our ancestors used sculptures to develop a close relationship with the gods depicted.

The sanctum hall doorway is carved with five Sakhas and at the base are Saiva dvarapalas flanked by female Chauri-bearers. Similarly the doorways of the northern Garbhagriha and the west Antarala are finely carved. In the center of sanctum hall is a pedestal on which is found a Shiva Linga called Bhimeshvara.

The sabhamandapa has four ornate pillars on the raised floor at the center. Its interior niches accommodate sculptures of Ganesa, Mahishamardini, Saptamatrikas and seated Yaksha. A small bull is kept in front of the west Garbhagriha, in the Sabhamandapa. This is one of elegant temples of the Chalukyan period.

The Garbhagriha doorway is finely carved with scroll work and has Saiva dvarapalkas holding Trishula and Damara. The Antarala doorway is profusely carved with dvarpalas at its jambs. There are two Dvarapalika sculptures which fully decorated with different types of ornaments with fine hair dress. Ddoorway has Gaja-Lakshmi on its lintel and dvarpala at the jambs. The lintel has an exquisite representation of the Hindu Trinity, Shiva with Parvati, Ganesha, Kartikeya and Nandi are in the middle, Brahma with Sarasvati on the left and Vishnu with Lakhsmi on the right.

There are four subsidiary shrines around the western garbha-griha in the sabha-mandapa. Two are flanked on the either side of the western garbha-griha, one housing Ganesha and other Mahishasura-mardini. The other two shrines are on the southern and northern walls, one having Sapta-matrikas and the other has an image of yaksha which, probably, originally was on the Shikhrara of the temple.

The central ceiling of the Sabha-mandapa is executed in two overlapped lotus fashion. On its vertical panels are carved Ashta-dikpalas (eight directional guardians) with their respective mounts. The temple Vimana has interspersed projections and recesses.

The projections are decorated with shikharas of Vesara style supported on pilasters while the recesses are decorated with Sikharas in Dravidian style supported on a single pilaster. Channabasappa puts this temple in the Vesara style category. However the Stupa on the Shikhara top is square in shape which puts it’s under the Nagara style.

Gazetteer mentions that this temple was never completed, the tower over the west shrine being unfinished and some of the blocks along the base being left plain. But this is not the case, the tower of the west shrine is almost complete however there is no tower on top of the other two shrines which appears left incomplete.