Weekend Getaways to Kasargod

 On June last Sunday My wife and I began the day with fine bike ride, as a first leg of our trip, we stopped en-route at Madhur and flew into Madhur Temple. The Madhur temple is a Shiva temple with Anantheswara as its presiding deity. But equal importance is given to the deity Maha Ganapathi. It is said that when the temple was being constructed the devotees forgot to install the Ganesha idol but Ganesha miraculously appeared in the rock and from then on he is given more importance in the temple. The idols of Shiva and Vinayaka are installed in Mukhamandapam and Sukasana’s. The Sivalingam of the temple is said to have been found by a harijan woman, Madharu. One can find references of this temple in the Sahyadri Centre of Skanda Purana. Devotees usually offer prayers to Mahaganapathi in the form of "Udayastamana".

This temple is the most renowned one among the four temples built by the Mypadi kings of Kumbla around the 10th century. The temple was renovated in the 15th century and was built in a distinctive style in a three storied oval structure adorned with copper plate roofing. In 1784 TippuSulthan attacked Kumbala border and entered to Madhur area after drinking water from the well of the temple, he changed his mind on attacking and demolishing the Garbhagudi and marched towards Malabar. But to satisfy his soldiers and Islamic scholars he made a cut with his sword symbolising the attack. The mark is still visible on the building that is built around the temple well.

 The unique architectural style makes this temple different from other shrine which is noted for its archaeological value. Variety of patterns in temple architecture can be enjoyed here. Madhur Maha Ganapathi Temple is a specimen of rich cultural heritage of the Kasargod region. It is a perfect blend of architecture of Kerala and Karnataka regions. The rich architecture, imposing structure of the temple and the copper plate roofing rises majestically against the beautiful landscape of hills, the place is indeed fascinating. There are abundant paddy fields and gardens with the river Madhuvahini flowing leisurely in front of the temple. The sacred Stream of the temple pond is said to possess spiritual power to cure all diseases.

This temple has a huge 3 tired 'Gaja prishta' type Sreekovil. The wood carvings in the temple are marvellous. The carvings depict historic heroes of Mahabharat and Ramayana. These eye-feast carvings are in the ceilings of Namaskara Mandapam of the temple. A closer examination of the wood carvings would disclose the various episodes of the Ramayana, beginning with the Sita Swayamvara. The Mantapa in the interior of the temple building as well as the outside facade of the second and third store of the main building are also profuse with attractive and exquisite wood carvings. Later we headed to Malla and had grace of goddess Durga Paramesvari.

 We had delicious lunch at temple we thought it would be a nice idea to hit the beach and have a glimpse of the sun dipping below the horizon, so drove straight to Historic Bekal fort which was some 15km (70kms from Mangalore) from there and on ride the plain roads were gone and we were maneuvering sharp turns. The road was good but the turns were very steep. But my Bike had no problems scaling them with ease. The beauty and scenic view on this route was amazing and we had the road and the beauty all to ourselves.

 BEKAL FORT

 The road was scenic giving glimpses of the sea every now and then. It was evening when I reached Bekal Fort my mind was tired and my legs were tired after this long drive. After reaching the parking area, we had to do a short walk to reach the fort. The fort itself was nothing much, but the views on all four sides were majestic. The construction which dates back to the 1500s is magnificent. Built by Shivappa Naika of Ikkeri dynasty and in 1763 the Mysore ruler Hydarali captured it. This beautiful Fort stands on a hillock jutting into the Arabian Sea & provides breath taking view.

 The sight of the Sea and beach from the fort was quiet impressive. The rear end of the fort gives way to an exclusive beach where huge waves lash the walls of the fort. Overall the view of the sea from here was amazing.

 You can feel the power of the ocean hitting the rocks at the beach. The views around and the fort itself was majestic and spread around a vast area on top of the hill. The place was really good and worth seeing at-least once in a life time. I had fun while roaming here and there inside the fort.

 Bekal Fort had gathered attention after one of South India's revered Movie Director had shot a memorable song with his Characters. The view of the Arabian Sea was beautiful from the Fort took some snaps had a long walk all along the rampant of the Fort.  It’s started drizzling first quickly turning in to a steady downpour and the clock kept ticking away to half past five so we decided to pack ourselves and continued the return journey.

Bidanur Fort (Shivappa Naik’s Fort)- Nagara

Worth a stop when traveling through the Sagar-Hosnagar road you can just see it from the outside state highway and you certainly won't miss it. The very sight of the fort when you are driving your way makes a sure stop for you to visit the fort. It’s in size not much huge but still it had its own identity since Keladi-Kings time. The majestic fort of Bidanur that could survive the rampage of time and humans is one of the stupendous examples of Karnataka history.

  What leaves you amazing about Bidanur Fort is that, unlike other forts in India, which are usually built on hills or with water bodies surrounding it on all sides, the Bidanur Fort is built on an elevated ground, merely few meters high. Still one can get an excellent view of several miles in all directions, especially the Western Ghats. There is no natural frontier like hilly terrain or water around the fort.

The fort built of stone masonry is almost ovoid on plan having a series of bastions at regular intervals. Above the masonry wall raises the thick parapet with a series of musket holes. Some parts of the fort that stand strong, speak volumes about the glory it enjoyed in 17^th century. Inside the lofty outer walls of the fort, is hidden many treasures of the glorious past. The fort witnessed the ups and downs faced by the Keladi kings.

The entrance of the fort is marked by a slope pathway that leads you to the huge gateway with two round bastions on either side. The moment you enter inside you can see vast green pasture spread as far as your eyes can see. The courtyard inside shows signs of a former guard room. The fort is entered through a steep ramp leading to the main entrance from the north. The gateway is flanked by two bastions and has a sally port on the left side. Inside the third wall is a large open court facing which there is a terrace overlooking the fort. There are more slope path ways than staircase to climb the fort unlike you see in many other forts.

Basically you can see some ruined construction identified as the "Darbar Hall" of Shivappa Nayaka, a temple area in the centre, twin water ponds inside the fort and many more. There is a dry well, few tiny caves like structures which were probably meant for safe exit of royal family in case of invasion, and several watch posts. The fort walls had collapsed at several places and are being reconstructed using red brick.

As you explore, you can come across a broken cannon lying on the ground unlike some of the forts which only have steps, this fort has drivable path inside to most of the places, most probably to move the cannons mounted wheels and don’t forget to see four grinding stones that were used to grind food materials in those times. What makes these grinding stones, made of granite, eye-catching is its huge size. They are placed on the opposite side of each other and are supported by other granite boulders from the bottom.

Devagange, a bathing place of the royalties of Bidanur Keladis, is an engineering marvel and must visit place. It is really amazing to note the engineering techniques of those times. The water flowing from the hills above was collected in seven ponds with different shapes. These ponds were used for bathing by the kings and queens of Bidanur. Most captivating of all are the two lakes shaped like a lotus and a star with fountains in the center.

A steep ramp provided at the extreme end of the open courtyard abutting the outer fort wall leads to the observatory tower. The depression further south of the octagonal well seems to be a storage tank to the south east of which is a huge mound probably enclosing a huge rubble structure. Beyond this mound and the observatory is another structure, now in ruins having a vast opening towards south considering its isolated and exclusive location, this seems to be the place where the queens and their attendants were accommodated. On the whole, the structural remains scattered inside the fort, though in ruins, represent the meticulous post medieval layout of fort.

BRIEF HISTORY: Nagar is situated about 16 km. from Hosanagara town. Before attaining historical importance, this place was called Bidarahalli (anciently known as Bidnur) named after a small village. It shot into prominence during the reign of Hiriya Venkatappa Nayaka (1592-1629 A.D.) of Ikkeri kingdom when he annexed this region during his campaign and regularized worship in the Sri Nilakanthesvara temple. However, it attained the status of a capital from the time of Virabhadra Nayaka (1629-1645 A.D.) who succeeded Hiriya Venkatappa Nayaka .Due to the sudden attack of Islamic forces under Ranadulla Khan of Bijapur Sultanate, lkkeri was razed to the ground in 1560A.D. inspite of Virabhadra Nayaka's efforts to contain the onslaught.

Since Ikkari was becoming a centre of political and economic crisis Virabhadm Nayaka abandoned it. He built a formidable fort with beautiful palaces at strategically important point in Bidnur and made it his Capital in 1639 A.D. Virabhadra Nayaka was succeeded by Sivappa Nayaka (1645-¬1665 A.D.) who ascended the throne at Bidnur (or Venupura). During Sivappa Nayaka's time this place was buzzing with vibrant political activity. He improved and enlarged it. His successor ruled from here till it was annexed in 1763 A.D. by Haider Ali who renamed Bidnur as Haider Nagar. Now it is called as Nagar only. Haideri gold pagodas were struck here in the mint established by Haider Ali. During the Mysore War it suffered badly due to burning. Tipu Sultan rebuilt the palace and its surroundings. However, it never regained its lost glory and slowly it was abandoned to its present condition.

Nilakanteswara temple - Jammatige Agrahara, Hariharapura

Hariharapura has quite a few interesting ancient temples and archeological gems to discover just a short drive away from the small village town. There are 3 temples of Hindu built from 10th to 16th century, spread over area of 10 sq. km of forest that is biologically rich in flora and fauna.

The dense forests and Tunga river provides an excellent opportunity to experience nature, lower ranges of Western-Ghats on Tunga River bounded on the Western side by Neelakanteswar temple and Semi-evergreen forest with riparian vegetation and cultivated lands on another side.

We reached Hariharapura and drove towards the Jammatige Agrahara house. It was a small Agrahara have lines of eight Brahmin houses on three sides of the temple and the Shiva temple at the center thus resembling a garland around the temple. This place has a history of at least 500 to 700 years. This village was originally formed as a Brahmin Settlement to carry out the religious activities connected to the Shiva temple. The entire land belonged to the native Brahmins here. During the Keladi and Vijayanagar kingdom, the King used to migrate to Brahmin families to such places, give them land and other facilities. This way a place becomes a pilgrimage and a center of learning.

This temple was built during 1654 AD, by Mallikarjuana and Shankaranarayana, about two kilometers away from the Hariharpura. Kalasada Kalanna, the main architect-sculptor behind this temple. This temple has intricate carvings on its four sides depicting the entire Ramayana and Mahabharata.

The Sculptures being made of granite, it is a small but well proportioned temple, consisting of a sanctum, vestibule Mandapa and portico. It is a gem of architecture and is indeed remarkable as much for its ornate sculptures on its inner sanctum and outer walls are as rich as on the larger temples.

Local people of Agrahara are keen in protecting and developing the Jammatige Agrahara Mahseer fish (Bili Meenu) Sanctuary. It is of religious importance as it is situated below Neelakantheswara Temple. After performing Pooja in Nilakanteswara temple the fishes are fed daily by the Archakas, visitors and pilgrims. This fish has a religious status for the local community and as such it is not consumed as food but is fed, protected and worshiped. Pilgrims and visitors also partake in feeding the fish with rice.

The fishes are worshiped as sacred and are not killed by local people. The river supports rich fish population and water is free flowing and unpolluted. Mahseer congregation is noticed about 1 Km downstream of river Tunga. National Bureau of Fish Genetic Resources and Zoological Survey of India have classified Mahseer TorKhudree as endangered fish hence conservative and development measures are to be adopted.