Shivaganga hills -Tumkur

Shivaganga hills is an ancient religious and picnic centre situated about 60km from Bangalore on the way to Tumkur, it has a monolithic black granite hill raising over 1380 meters above the sea level. The cave temples on the hill dedicated to Gavi-Gangadhara (Shiva) and his consort Swarnambha or Honna Devi are worshiped here. Gavi (kannada word) means cave. As the temple is situated within a cave like structure it is called as Gavigangadhareshwara. The inner sanctum is believed to be connecting to another Shiva temple, Gavigangadhareshwara which is at Bangalore.

The place is just fantastic, with breathtaking views from the high altitudes. Brilliant are the views of the surrounding villages, the nearby Pushkarini or pond, from the top of the hill. Most of the place is rocky, with railings to hold on to as you climb, and monkeys to make sure you don’t take any offerings to the deity on top!

The devotees who travel to Shivaganga bring along with them the ghee to offer to Lord Shiva. Shiva is in the form of Lingam at Gangadhareshwara temple. The priest applies the ghee and rubs it all over the Shiva Lingam. Amazingly, one can see the ghee turning back to butter, in front of them. Any answers to this in our modern science? No one has the answer to why this amazing change occurs.

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Lots of pilgrims travel to the place during their holidays just to watch the miracle happen in front of them. The ghee that turns to butter has medicinal properties in it.

You will be amazed to see the beautiful natural spring at Patalaganga on your way to the hilltop of Shivaganga. Inside some of the rocks, the underground spring is seen seeping at the entrance. Water level of Patal Ganga sometimes comes up to the knee height and is always cold. Water flowing is connected at Antargange which is quite far from the spot. You could find some small fountains or water bodies, that we were told, never dry up throughout the year!

Here are many spots on the Shivaganga hill where spring water is seen. People believe that spring water comes from the holy river Ganges. Lord Shiva and the river Ganga (Ganges) together are called by the name Shivaganga.

Olakallu Teertha is the spring water found on the hillock. Pilgrims step down the narrow stairs between the rocks to see the spring. People believe that only a pious person can get a touch or feel of the water within. Myself and my bro Ani, one of them luckiest person who were touched the water on that hole.

There is also a Lord Ganesha temple and 108 Lingams near Agasthya theertha. Nandi is a monolith placed atop on a huge rock. Beautiful scenery around can be seen from the top of the rock. It is a peak spot of Shivaganga hills. People who travel to this place during holidays should carry enough water because it is too hot on the hills.

Sculptures and carvings are seen on the walls and the pillars of the temple. Most of them have succumbed to the weather conditions and negligence. A few paintings have lost their heritage look after they were repainted. The only problem that travelers face is the menace of monkeys on the Shivaganga hills.

These hills have Ashtalingas (8 shivalingas) by name Gangadhareshwara along with consort Swarnambha, Shantheshwara, Omkareshwara, Revana Siddheshwara, Kumbheshwara, Someshwara and Muddu Veereshwara. 

 Ashta Vrishabas (8 bulls) by name Nandi Vrishaba, Makara Basava, Mahisha Basava, Gare Basava, Dodda basava, Kadale Basava, Giri Basava and Kodugallu Basava. Ashta Theerthas (8 sacred water springs) by name Agasthya Theertha, Shankara Theertha, Kanva Theertha, Kadamba Theertha, Maithla Theertha, Patala Gange, Olakallu Theertha and Kapila Theertha.

Queen Shantala’s suicide point or Shanthala drop is a spot which is 500 feet high from the foot of the hill. The Queen, at her young age, always used to practice the dance in front of her deity, Honnadevi. During King Vishnuvardhana’s reign, Shantala Devi had a great influence in the administration and religious reforms. King was a Vaishnava follower as he was influenced by the saint Ramanujacharya, but Shantala was a follower of Jainism Shantala was the Pattamaharani (Queen who had right to sit on the throne).

Shantala was in a big depression as she couldn’t give birth to a child who would become heir after King Vishnuvardhana. Only the Pattamaharani’s son could become a legal successor according to the rule. When Queen Shantala did not have children, the other queen Lakshmi was to be allowed to become the Pattamaharani because she already had a boy baby. But the king never agreed to this. He always believed that Shantala would give birth to a son anytime, sooner or later. Shantala could not tolerate this for long. She made up her mind to end her life near the temple of deity, Honnadevi.

So, one night when everyone at the palace was fast asleep she rode on a horse and reached Shivaganga. After she prayed at the temple, she jumped from the hill to end her life. She was in her early twenties when she died. It is also said that Queen Shantala Devi died after observing the Jaina practice of Sallekhana (fasting unto death) at Shivaganga.

On some days during the night, localities moving around near the Shantala drop have heard the sound of a woman's anklets. Even to this day, they believe that her restless soul wanders at this place, with deep sorrow.

Lord Shiva’s consort Honnadevi also a deity in the nearby temple. Queen Shantala of the Hoysala dynasty was a great devotee of goddess Honnadevi. Patala Ganga, the natural spring water is situated between the two temples.

During the reign of Hoysala rulers, King Vishnuvardhana had contributed a lot for the renovation of the Shivaganga temple. Later Kempegowda too had built a beautiful tower over the temple and renovated it again.

Madhugiri Fort - Hillocks galore (2)

 Later at mid-noon we headed to the next level. Our next trail became more steeper and dry. Climbing the huge boulders was tiring and few places it’s very deep too, an awesome hike we reached middle part of the fortress. I was tired and hot and felt my tummy saying hungry. It was a stunning adventure to do just having half liter water without any food at mid-noon is at it challenging, although also at its loveliest.

 Round and round went my feet, and for each several revolutions the elevation would gain another foot or two. Soon I was gasping, and then resting. The view down to my surroundings grew more and more panoramic and after a hard attempt we reached top at 3pm. I did feel some small sense of accomplishment at having made it, but I was too weary at the time to appreciate it much.

 We had shared last drop of water on top, and then began the walk along the cliffs up towards the north, where there was rest of an ancient castle. I admired the view while ascended to the slightly higher view from the top. A 360 degrees panoramic picture will add to the spectacular view of the fort.

History:

The original construction of the fort can be attributed to The Ganga Dynasty. They were great builders and had built a number of temples all over Karnataka. Before the fort could be completed they were overthrown by Nolamba dynasty. The Reign of Nolamba dynasty lasted a short time before they were defeated by Vijaynagar Empire.

An interesting incident prompted the Gowda family to considering building a fortress. A stray sheep went missing around the Madhugiri hillock only to return late in the night dripping with water. This was music to the ears since a spring would definitely be welcome sign for rain deficient area. A decision to construct a fortress was arrived and the task was completed. The Gowdas started ruling this region based at Madhugiri Fort. Genesis of the name Madhugiri is derived from the Honeybee colonies which were prevalent in those days towards the northern parts of the Madhugiri fortress.

In 1678, The Gowda’s got into a disagreement with the Wadiyars of Mysore over non submission of revenue collected being feudatory. The Devaraja of Dalavoy dynasty, who was the commanders under Wodeyar’s of Mysore soon invaded the fort and captured it. However the Gowda’s on agreeing to part with the tax were restored their title and fort. The Maratha’s invaded the territory and captured the fort. They held the fort for 7 years before they were defeated by Hyder Ali in year 1764.

 Hyder Ali ordered the restoration of the mud fort by building huge arches and watch towers. The highlight of the new fort after the restoration was the huge circular granaries which were used to store Ragi, oil and ghee. After the death of Tipu Sultan in 1799 the British manned the fort for a brief period and used the premises to jail the mutineers in 1857.  Since the Fort was built in an impregnable manner, it served as barracks and prison.

Final Stage of the Fort...

We find one small pond on top of the hill but water was not drinkable its filled with plastics and junks, I can’t say this enough but keep in mind that we are spoiling the beauty of the place by leaving our junk everywhere we stop. We find few places people spoiled the walls to write their name rubbish things on the walls. A lot of the natural historical beauty has been destroyed like such foolish activities by uncivilized humans.

 The surroundings of Madhugiri are dotted with several hills like Anandarayana Betta, Midigeshi durga and Bhasmangi Betta. The nearby popular trekking rocks Siddarabetta and Chennarayanadurga, now part of Koratagere taluk, were once part of Madhugiri.

 Siddeshwara Gavi, Pataladammana Gavi, Meke Gavi and Saddhu Gavi are the cave rocks located at the foothill of Bolibetta. Bolibetta hillock is near Chikka Madhugiri Betta on the outskirts of Madhugiri.

I could see the many birds soaring near the cliff face on the updrafts of air that must have been present. It was quite a sight.  I wouldn’t like to stay very long on the peak, but it was also time to be on our way back, after an enjoyable time on top we turned down, and went down a steep hill passing by the same rout coming down the hill is fairly quick. 

At the bottom of the hill we came to the town as usual, it was a puzzle finding something that could serve as lunch, but we had seasonal Mango juice 4 cups each so this was the end of our wonderful adventure.