Vindhyagiri (Indragiri) - A colossal Monolith Hill

Shravanabelagola town is 10km from Chananrayanpatna, it has two hillocks, Indragiri and Chandragiri. The former one is also known as Vindhyagiri, and stands 143 meters high. About five hundred steps lead to the top of this picturesque hillock where 58.6 ft high Bahubali (Gomata) statue stands.

The Jain religion is contemporary of Buddhism, believes in cycle of rebirths and consequently regards life as painful, longing for liberation. It came to Karnataka four centuries before the Christian era. The Gangas, Kadambas, Chalukyas and Hoysala kings had encouraged the Jainism. They have left innumerable shrines, Basadis, Gomata statues and Stambhas. The Shravanbelagola is also one of the important Jain monuments of Karnataka. Shravanabelagola has been great seat of learning for thousands of years and is home to some of the most beautiful Jain fine arts.

The steps leading to the Odegal Basti contains Adinatha, Neminatha and Shanthinatha icons. Odegal Basti is so called because of the stone props against its basement. It is only Trikutachala temple at Shravanbelagola. Built of granite blocks, it’s impressive for the commanding position it occupies. All the pillars in the main hall are circular in shape and the outer walls are very simple. In the three sanctums are beautiful images of Thirthankaras carved in schist. The temple is known as Trikuta Basadi.

 The Tyagada Brahmadeva Pillar (980 AD.) has intricate carvings. Tyagada Kamba (pillar) is a small open pavilion with an upper storey is historically important. In the center of the pavilion is an elaborately carved pillar which is unmatched in artistic beauty. It was probably erected in the late 10^th century. It’s believed that minister Chavunaraya distributed gifts to the needy and the deserving from here. Another view is that he renounced from here all his worldly possessions including his life.

The simple scroll designs elegant workmanship and bold lines bring out the best of the Ganga workmanship. The original inscription at the base was erased in about 1200 AD by Heggade Kanna. This Heggade installed the Yaksa image on top of this pillar and got a record engraved at its pedestal. Some 500 years later an upper Mantapa was built in brick and mortar.

The outer Prakara was erected during the time of Mysore Wodeyars at 17^th century. The Siddhanta Basti at its southeast corner was built in the 14^th century. It is notable for the 2 commemorative columns in the hall than for the image enshrined in the sanctum. These columns were erected in 1398 and 1432 in honor of saint Panditharadhya and Srtamuni respectively. The text of the second memorial was composed by Mangraja a famous Kannada poet.

The Wadeyar MAntapa on the western corner has a column which has a donatives record. One portion of this record tells how mortgaged property of the temple was got redeemed by the initiative of the Mysore king Chamaraja Wodeyar in 1634 AD. The other portion mentions the grants made for the upkeep of this center by King Dodda Krishnaraja Wodeyar in the 16^th century.

 Gullekayi Ajji Mantapa – An image of immense legendary interest is found in this Mantapa. Its open ground floor consists of 5 pillars, an inscription and an image the old lady (Gullekayi Ajji). The upper floor enshrines a Yaksha image. The large central pillar was cut out of a boulder in the 12^th century. The inscription column was placed against the central pillar 1422 A.D., by Irugappa Dandanayaka. It mentions the gifts made by this general to Gommata.

The Image of GullekayiAjji wears a pleated saree. According to a local legend, Yakshi Padmavathi transformed herself into an old woman to humble the pride of Chavundaraya. The Gullakayajji sculpture is specimen of very fine workmanship. The Akanda Bagilu is a doorway carved out of single rock. The Siddaragunda is a massive-rock on which rows of Jina figures have been carved.

The Statue of Gommatesvara at Sravanabelagola, the tallest free standing stone sculpture in the world has given a unique and international cultural status toKarnataka. Sravanabelagola is the most sacred religious center of the Jainas. It has a hoary antiquity dating back to the third century B.C., when Bhadrabahu along with the Maurya king Chandragupta came and settled down here.

 From then many Karnataka dynasties like the Gabgas of Talakad, the Chalukyas, the Hoysalas, the rulers of Vijayanagara andothers patronized this Jaina sacred place. However it was during the period of Ganga king Rachamalla IV (9^th century), the place became famous because his minister Chamunaraya consecrated this image of Gommatesvara on the summit of the hill commanding a picturesque view of the whole area. A large number of Jainatemples were built here at different periods by various dynasties which have made this center an open air museum of Jaina art.

The real attraction of Sharavanabelagola is the colossal image of Bahubali also known as Gommatesvara. Its height is 54 feet and is the tallest stone sculpture in the world. Theimage is nude and stands facing north in an erect yogic posture. It is a monolith carved around 980 A.D. and considered to be a landmark in the annals of world art. His broad shoulders are 26 feet across. He is a symbol of eternal value, absolute renunciation detachment, and a soul set free from material surroundings. The serene expression of the face is remarkable.

 The hair is curly and the ears are long, the shoulders being broad and the arms hang down straight with the thumbs turned outwards. The lower portion adds majesty and grandeur. The entire image stands on a pedestal which is in the form of a lotus. The foot measures nine feet in length; the forefinger is 3 feet 6 inches; third is 4 feet 7 inches; the fourth finger is 2 feet 3 inches.

 The face of Gommatesvara is most artistic and is a commentary on the success of the skill of the sculptor who carved it. The eyes are half open and the eyes balls appear as if real. This also symbolizes the pensive mood of the saint. The total effect is one of majesty, grace and dignity, and expresses his compassion towards the fellow beings and hence is considered as the best in this type.

Gommatesvara has been watching the human beings and their sufferings for the past one thousand years and people are looking at him for guidance for an ethical and religious life. Thus he is inspiring people to follow the path of Dharma. Once in twelve years a special ritual called Mahamastakabhisheka takes place when lakhs of people assemble here to be blessed by the compassionate Gommatesvara.

Madhugiri Fort - Hillocks galore (2)

 Later at mid-noon we headed to the next level. Our next trail became more steeper and dry. Climbing the huge boulders was tiring and few places it’s very deep too, an awesome hike we reached middle part of the fortress. I was tired and hot and felt my tummy saying hungry. It was a stunning adventure to do just having half liter water without any food at mid-noon is at it challenging, although also at its loveliest.

 Round and round went my feet, and for each several revolutions the elevation would gain another foot or two. Soon I was gasping, and then resting. The view down to my surroundings grew more and more panoramic and after a hard attempt we reached top at 3pm. I did feel some small sense of accomplishment at having made it, but I was too weary at the time to appreciate it much.

 We had shared last drop of water on top, and then began the walk along the cliffs up towards the north, where there was rest of an ancient castle. I admired the view while ascended to the slightly higher view from the top. A 360 degrees panoramic picture will add to the spectacular view of the fort.

History:

The original construction of the fort can be attributed to The Ganga Dynasty. They were great builders and had built a number of temples all over Karnataka. Before the fort could be completed they were overthrown by Nolamba dynasty. The Reign of Nolamba dynasty lasted a short time before they were defeated by Vijaynagar Empire.

An interesting incident prompted the Gowda family to considering building a fortress. A stray sheep went missing around the Madhugiri hillock only to return late in the night dripping with water. This was music to the ears since a spring would definitely be welcome sign for rain deficient area. A decision to construct a fortress was arrived and the task was completed. The Gowdas started ruling this region based at Madhugiri Fort. Genesis of the name Madhugiri is derived from the Honeybee colonies which were prevalent in those days towards the northern parts of the Madhugiri fortress.

In 1678, The Gowda’s got into a disagreement with the Wadiyars of Mysore over non submission of revenue collected being feudatory. The Devaraja of Dalavoy dynasty, who was the commanders under Wodeyar’s of Mysore soon invaded the fort and captured it. However the Gowda’s on agreeing to part with the tax were restored their title and fort. The Maratha’s invaded the territory and captured the fort. They held the fort for 7 years before they were defeated by Hyder Ali in year 1764.

 Hyder Ali ordered the restoration of the mud fort by building huge arches and watch towers. The highlight of the new fort after the restoration was the huge circular granaries which were used to store Ragi, oil and ghee. After the death of Tipu Sultan in 1799 the British manned the fort for a brief period and used the premises to jail the mutineers in 1857.  Since the Fort was built in an impregnable manner, it served as barracks and prison.

Final Stage of the Fort...

We find one small pond on top of the hill but water was not drinkable its filled with plastics and junks, I can’t say this enough but keep in mind that we are spoiling the beauty of the place by leaving our junk everywhere we stop. We find few places people spoiled the walls to write their name rubbish things on the walls. A lot of the natural historical beauty has been destroyed like such foolish activities by uncivilized humans.

 The surroundings of Madhugiri are dotted with several hills like Anandarayana Betta, Midigeshi durga and Bhasmangi Betta. The nearby popular trekking rocks Siddarabetta and Chennarayanadurga, now part of Koratagere taluk, were once part of Madhugiri.

 Siddeshwara Gavi, Pataladammana Gavi, Meke Gavi and Saddhu Gavi are the cave rocks located at the foothill of Bolibetta. Bolibetta hillock is near Chikka Madhugiri Betta on the outskirts of Madhugiri.

I could see the many birds soaring near the cliff face on the updrafts of air that must have been present. It was quite a sight.  I wouldn’t like to stay very long on the peak, but it was also time to be on our way back, after an enjoyable time on top we turned down, and went down a steep hill passing by the same rout coming down the hill is fairly quick. 

At the bottom of the hill we came to the town as usual, it was a puzzle finding something that could serve as lunch, but we had seasonal Mango juice 4 cups each so this was the end of our wonderful adventure.